Goa

We have arrived in the promised land!

Mumbai

It took almost 20 hrs spread`over 2 trains to get here.  I do feel like I had my first real Indian train journey as the 2nd train was not Air Conditioned and we had about 10 people trying to cram into what was a 3 person compartment. Nice.  Being sat by the window I got the full blast of Indian air and felt perhaps a bit too close to the scenery at times.

Pushkar to Udaipur (Lake City)

As soon as we sat down on the platform at the train station some dude came over and seemed to be bursting to say something.  He eventually mustered the courage to say hi to Andy.  He was absolutely beside himself with excitement.  I guess he was from the villages where they don't ever see many foreigners.  Really difficult to communicate with the obvious language barrier but we got the jist that he was very pleased to meet us.

Jaisalmer to Pushkar via Jodpur

We had to wait around until midnight for our train.  We spent a lot of time by the pool and catching up on sleep after we got back to the hotel.  This is the only pain of having bought the tour.  No control over your travel timings.  I felt quite envious of the Canadian couple, Foster and Briana, who has their own driver.   How lush, but I haven't a clue how much that was.  We only had one night in Jodpur.  We didn't really sleep on the train so we had to sleep when we arrived and then got a train at 7am the next day.  It seemed similar to other places but definitely had the worst roads!  So bumpy!  We did have the best food so far.  An awesome mutton curry.  Very rich though. I started taking my malaria tablets also.  Just waiting to see if I lose it.  Dun dun duh!!!


Jodpur to Pushkar
We arrived in Pushkar at some point in the afternoon after leaving Jodpur.  It is such a change of pace in comparison to where we have been.  It's quite a small town centre so quite walkable which was nice.  Loads of small shops mainly selling clothes and trinkets.  It is home to a crazy  amount of temples as well. 


I've decided to buy a pair of loose fitting lighter trousers.  I was`trying  to fight the urge to by hareems but I'm failing. I am such a cliche.  Every other traveller you see wears hareems.  Some well.  Some not so well...  

I took the plunge and bought a pair yesterday.  They are a bit more transparent than I would have liked. The shop keeper told me it was fine.  He had glasses that made his pupils seem more enlarged.  I think this is a tactic on his part.  I guess that the trade off you make to not constantly have a sweaty crotch.  Sorry...

I quite like Pushkar.  We discovered a little cafe called The Funky Monkey that does actual coffee.  I had all but given up hope of ever having a good coffee in India.  It is also so hard finding somewhere to just sit and relax.  People seem to congregate on road sides etc.  Finding this cafe was so good because we could just sit and watch the world go by for a bit and talk.

Jaipur to Jaisalmer

From Jaipur we made our way into the desert.  Jaisalmer has an interesting vibe.  Andy said it was Benidorm meets the Middle East, which I fear in a few years time  might not be that far from the truth...  There  is a huge amount of construction going on.  It fel like a place on the verge of becoming something else.  Quite a small town but the amount of hotels was really surprising.  I guess it is wanting to be the tourist capital of the North West.  Every so often you can hear the call to prayer over a tanoy system that can be heard over the entire town. I felt like I could be anywhere in the middle east and not India.  So hot as well and there were lightning storms pretty much every night.  Sophie and Pete are still on the same trail as us and let us bore them with our company. We were really excited about this stop because this is where we had the desert safari booked.

Desert safari.

We had to drive  for about an hour out of Jaisalmer in the back of a really fast moving jeep to a desert resort in a small town.  We arrived and waited for more people to arrive and in the end there were probably about 10 of us heading out.  Andy, Sophie, Pistol Pete and me headed out first on our camels into the desert.  My camel was quite big really and it's quite scary being that high up on an animal you can't control.  We each had a guide with us though which illeviates some of that initial anxiety. We trotted off into the heat with scraves around our heads feeling very Arabian nights.  My camel was a bit annoying though because it kept stopping to eat everything.  It literally didn't stop eating and pooing the whole way.  Then if it wasn't him it was my guide squatting and peeing all the time.  I didn't really know where to look because each time would take me by surprise. At one point my guide let go and my camel made beeline for a desert thorn tree and dragged me in there with it.  What can you do - jump off...  Anyway we got to the desert in time for sunset which was really nice.  A bit hazy but still good.

We headed back for food at the house/resort and Andy got to trott off without a guide.  I wasn't so brave.  However his camel was panting and out of breath most of the time.  I'm thinking it thought, the quicker I get home the sooner this man gets off my back.  The only bad thing was getting off the camels and having the guides ask for money.  It's tough because you've already paid for an experience and then you feel like you have to pay again.  We didn't cough up which makes you feel really guily and horrid because we imagine they get paid, but what if they dont.  But then I'm not rolling in it and it all adds up, so that wasn't a nice feeling. Dinner and music was nice though.  I even got to try the desert thorns my camel so dearly loved. We`opted to sleep out in the desert and it was really fun.  All we had was a bed frame and a couple of blankets.  They had billed it to us as a tented desert stay with lanterns etc, but that wasn't what we got. We didn't take a torch so it was scarily dark and there was no shelter from the winds so to breathe you had to cover your face.  It's that feeling when you're in the back of a fast moving vehicle with the windows open and you can't breathe.  Imagine trying to  sleep through that.  The stars were so clear though and we even saw 2 shooting stars.  They just felt so close.  We missed the first bit of the sunrise but it was still amazing to wake up in the desert apart from the massive desert spider nestled in our bed...  Although it wasn't totally as billed it was still an awesome experience.

Agra to Jaipur

Jaipur is probably one of my favourite cities so far. We stayed at the Sajjan Niwas hotel which was really nice.   It was maybe a bit more westernised in feel than the other  cities we have been to but still retained the Indian touch that makes all these cities unique in experience.  Our rickshaw guy who picked us up from the station was quite the character.  His nickname was Richie Rich and he explained that he could drive us around Jaipur and show us the real city not just the Tourist spots, so we agreed and for 500rupees for the whole day it wasn't a bad deal.  We saw the central museum which was a beautiful building.  I dont really get that excited about olg jugs etc but it was very interesting and had a range of paintings and weaponry that was good to see. Then a few other sites as well.  We ended this tour bizarrely with a trip to a Guru.  I can't remember his name, but he is apparently well known and very on the mark.  I dont know if I would do it again I have to say.  He went straight in told us things about our lives that were totally true.  It's strange having someone hold a mirror to our face like that.  Maybe not the best way to end our tour.  We felt quite emotionally drained! Just glad I didn't cry.

Anyway suffice to say we decided to end our tour and head back.  I dont think Richie Rich loved that much as he wanted to drag us to some markets so he'd get extra commission as is the general custom.  He  sulked all the way back to our hotel.  At that moment though I didn't feel too bad.

Agra

What a crazy ride to Agra.  Andy was sick the whole way here so when we arrived it was straight to bed for Andy. He looked so awful and all I could do really was just be there.  It's so frightening having someone be that ill and then being so far away from home.  He's taken antibiotics and they seem to be helping along with endless crappy movies and room service.  Thank heavens for that.  For the first time I am quite thankful for the pre paid tour as everything was just waiting for us when we arrived.

Day 2
Andy seems a lot better but tonight we have to get another train for 6hrs to Jaipur.  Fine normally, but when you have a dodgy constitution - not so much.  He's forced himself to accompany me the the Taj Mahal which I was really excited about.

I don't really get emotional about buildings but seeing it for the first time made me  feel so happy. It is such a beautiful building.  Even if you're not that fussed about architecture you have to appreciate the amount of work that went into creating it.  I'm floored!

Beautiful!

Other than that we didn't really see a whole lot in Agra.  I don't mind though as there didn't seem to be a lot else.  It was a bit less hectic than our previous destinations which was a welcome change.  A little less hassling it seemed but that was probably more to do with us not having having ventured out.  

Varanasi to Agra

Andy had a fever and a bad stomach last night and consequently looks quite zombie like this morning.  Unfortuantely we have the prospect of an overnight train journey to Agra ahead of us this evening.  His fever has gone down, so I'm hoping we'll make it there ok.  Fingers crossed and all that.  

Varanasi

I have to say, I'm so pleased to be leaving Delhi and so excited about boarding our first night train.  I've watched quite a few BBC documentaries about the Indian Railway, so I have an idea of what to expect.  We are in a compartment with 2 bunk beds either side.  Andy keeps saying hi to everyone because he's so excited.  It made me smile a lot.  As I stared wistfully out of my window waiting for the train to depart and thinking of the journey ahead.  Screeeech.  My romantic thoughts come to an abrupt stop as a man hops off the opposite platform and walks over the tracks and up to the train and gets his cock out and pees against the train.  Hmmm.  He is clearly not the only one though, as the station does whiff of it.  I think I'm just getting used to it now but it is a change from my norm.  Thankfully we set off ok.  I thought sleeping on a train would ok but that wasn't to be.  Anyways after no sleep again, we arrive in Varanasi.  Much the same really except not so built up.  But the same sounds and smells.

Mother Ganga
The reason I wanted to come here was to see the Ganges. I was so tired yesterday that I couldn't quite hack the idea of walking anywhere, so we just stayed in the hotel in the evening and watched HBO.  Dont judge me!  We even slept through our boat tour this morning.  Why on earth did we say yes to a 5am boat tour in our states- I dont know.  It's not too bad though as we finally made it to the Ganges.  It is as I imagined really.  Men and women bathing in the water and people just sat on the steps looking off into the distance.  I had watched a documentary about the Ganges ages ago and ever since then wanted to go.  In my vision though I would be wading in and splashing around.  Unfortunately my English constitution would have meant that I probably would have been ill for the next month if I'd done that, so I stuck to just taking photos:(
It was beautiful though witnessing how deeply this river was intertwined in people lives.  One boatman expalains that Indian people have 2 mothers.  Their 1st mother who brought them into the world and then Mother Ganga. We stayed until the evening and the moon was really bright and low in the sky.

The only thing was that we did stand out like a sore thumb and so kept being approached.  "Boat ride sir?/Shave and a massage?"  One man was so intent on shaving Andy that he practically had to wrestle his arm free from the man's hand.  I dont think I'm getting used to this yet.  I just tend to ignore people until they disappear.  Unfortunately it is Andy that gets most of it being a dashing tall white boy. People keep asking if I'm Indian, so I guess that does play a bit in my favour and not so much at the same time.  People will just bump me out of the way and one man even stepped on me to speak to Andy.  This is getting on my nerves quite a bit.  I'm patient but not that patient...  Poor Andy - he's handling it really well.  I think I would have had some kind of breakdown by now.

The Ganges!

Delhi

Delhi,

After a couple of weeks of Limbo, we are finally in Delhi.  We have arrived.  Woot!.  It is exactly the shock to me system I thought it would be and then some. The flight went as planned as we were slightly sceptical about jet airways- hey you fear the unknown sometimes... That said it was actually a really good flight.  The only problem was that I didn't get any sleep at all.  None in the slightest.  That what happens when you're stuck between 2 men and can't quite get any arm room or find a comfy position.  Plus part of me was worried I'd wake up with my head against the wrong chest...

We went through security ok and after quite a lenghty wait for our bags were found by our pick up.  It was some dude in a tin can that was so hot when we got in.  I reached for my seat belt and there wasn't one.  This is something I would have been concerned about but I'd been reliably informed that this is quite standard in India.  The air con was turned on and by that i mean we opened the windows a bit wider and we were away.  I've never heard so much beeping in all my years of living. Everyone beeps as they're driving. As noone indicates it's your way way of saying I'm here or hey -Move your arse!  You get my drift.  I have to say it was quite unnerving having never experienced this before. Weirdly though, I never felt unsafe... The driver seemed to be old hand at it.  We drove into what looked like some ghetto and I was thinking - Oh yeah we'll probably drive through this - and he stopped.  We got out- packs in hand and followed him down an alley that smelt like piss and barbeque. He led us to the office of our first hotel.  I was quite relieved. I didn't know what to think for a moment there.

Our room was actually quite lush in comparison to what I was expecting.  A TV, fan and Air Con.  Paradise.  It took me quite a while to come round to the idea of leaving the hotel room and venturing outside into the madness. We eventually did though into what was a Bazaar. It looked much more inviting than when I first laid eyes on it.  We were so wide eyed and scared looking though that we were easy prey.  Every few yards,we'd have someone stopping us.  "Hey nice shoes.  Where did you get those from" "Where you from?  England.  Ow- I have an uncle there" "You wanna come in my shop..."  Aaaargh!  Anyway we were so hot and tired we actually humoured one of them for some air-con.  He called himself the Indian Adam Sandler and said his family had once hosted Michael Palin.  He also said Andy looked like Tom Cruise and I looked like North Indian Gypsy. I was quite taken by his compliments.  If Andy hadn't been there - lord knows what I would have bought.  We ventured on and before the end of the day had bought a train ticket and hotel deal that took us around North India.  Not sure this was a good idea but it's done now and we feel had!

Day 2
Complimentary City Tour Anyone.
I figured how bad could this be.  It might be quite nice to have someone hold our hand around what is actually quite a crazy city.  A lovely hippy looking man told us "Don't be afraid.  Just Embrace it".  I have decided that this must be my mantra if I'm ever going to cross a road in Delhi.  We are met by our driver/tour guide for a half day tour of Delhi.  We decided to have a look at Old Delhi. As he drives I decide that leaning against the door is not wise as I don't think that our insurance covers us for falling out o f a moving vehicle into Delhi traffic...  We are taken to rickshaw as we're apparently going to see a market place and a temple.  This is my first ever rickshaw ride.  I have to say I was clinging on for dear life at first and slowly chilled out.  I just felt really bad for the guy cycling.  All the rickshaw men are so slight to look at. How on earth do they do this all day long.  I guess you do what you have to do.  Word to the wise - there is no such thing as a complimentary tour. We are passed on to a ropey looking tour guide who points out random stuff and then another rickshaw man.  We discover that each of them  expect payment and so after some heavy bartering we hand over something and ask to be taken home.  Our driver looked really perplexed/angry but I think we were passed caring.  He explains that India is a system and this is just the way it is.  Then tries to get us to go to some market as apparently that's were he makes his actual money.  I didn't bemoan him for trying but I did feel like a piece of meat at that moment.  It's a strange feeling and I suppose one that I'm going to have to learn to deal with and just get over.

Terrified and excited at Heathrow Airport

Delhi!

All of this for just 120 rupees.  Can't say no to that.

Andy at The Lotus Temple

Me at the Lotus Temple!

At what became our local haunt in Delhi, The Nirvana Cafe.